Techniques
Techniques
This page is your guide to knitting projects – whether you're a beginner or an experienced knitter. Here you'll find an overview of the knitting techniques referenced in my patterns to help ensure a successful result. Use this guide as a reference while working through my patterns or when you want to learn new methods to enhance your craft.
BEFORE YOU BEGIN
Gauge and Swatch
Gauge is essential to achieve the correct measurements in your project. Always knit a swatch, wash it, and measure it to ensure that your gauge matches the one given in the pattern. You’ll find the required gauge on page 2 of the pattern. If your swatch doesn’t match the gauge, adjust by switching to a larger or smaller needle. You can read everything you need to know about gauge and swatching here
Yarn tip
This tip can be used when holding two strands together.
Wind the two yarns you’ll be holding together into one ball. This way, you’ll only have to manage two balls while working colorwork instead of four. You can use a yarn winder, but if you don’t have one, simply wind the two yarns together into a ball by hand – much like you would when unraveling a project. When the Alva yarn runs out, I break the Anina strand, leaving a small leftover. These yarn ends can later be joined into a new ball either by tying knots or overlapping the ends with a length long enough to weave in securely.
Edge stitch (edg st) for colorwork
When knitting with one color:
Knit the edge stitch (edg st) knitwise on every row. Alternatively, you can work the edge stitch in whichever stitch type you find easiest to pick up later.
When knitting following the pattern:
First stitch on the needle: Knit in bf
Last stitch on the needle: Knit knitwise with both colors.
I-cord edge
An I-cord edge is a simple and elegant way to finish the edge of a knitting project. The result is a rounded edge, like a thin cord running along the border, giving a polished and neat appearance. Watch a video of the technique. here
CAST-ON TECHNIQUES
Knitting Cast-On
Loop cast-on
Loop cast-on is a simple method for casting on stitches — especially good for beginners or when you need to cast on a few stitches in the middle of your work (e.g., for sleeves or increases).
You make the cast-on by twisting the yarn around your finger and placing the loop onto the needle. Repeat until you have the desired number of stitches.
You can watch a video of the technique. here..
Judys magiske cast-on
Judy’s Magic Cast On is mainly used for toe-up socks, the base of bags, or other projects where you need to knit from the center outwards in both directions—creating a seamless, double-start cast-on.
The cast-on is worked using two needles and a yarn ball, where you twist the stitches directly onto both needles with a special motion. The result is an invisible and seamless start.
It requires some dexterity at first, but once you’ve mastered the technique, it’s a brilliant method for advanced cast-ons.
You can watch a video of the technique. here
Italian cast-on
The Italian cast-on creates an elegant and elastic edge that transitions smoothly into 1×1 ribbing. It’s perfect for projects where you want a an invisible start.such as necklines, sleeve edges, or ribbed hems at the bottom of a sweater.
The cast-on is worked by combining knit and purl stitches right from the start, so the transition into ribbing is smooth and without a visible edge. It takes a bit of practice but results in a very neat and polished finish.
Se en video af teknikken i 1×1 rib here.. Dobbeltstrik efter opslaget starter ved 4:20
Se en video af teknikken i 2×2 rib here.. Dobbeltstrik efter opslaget starter ved 3:10
Provisional Cast-On
A provisional cast-on is used when you want to pick up the stitches later and knit in the opposite direction, for example, when casting on for edges or shoulders.
Traditionally, a waste yarn is used, but you can also use a stitch holder wire. The advantage of a stitch holder wire is that the stitches are already resting on the wire, making it easy to transfer them directly onto the appropriate needle when you continue knitting.
Be careful to check that the stitches are oriented correctly. Every other stitch may be twisted.
You can watch a video of the technique. here
UDTAGNINGER
Løftede udtagninger
Løftede udtagninger bruges til at øge antallet af masker på en diskret måde, så udtagningen næsten bliver usynlig i arbejdet. Metoden egner sig godt til bærestykker, ærmer eller andre steder, hvor du ønsker en jævn formgivning uden markante huller.
Der findes to varianter af løftede udtagninger:
Løftet udtagning mod højre (LUH)
Her løfter du tråden mellem maskerne op bagfra med venstre pind, og strikker den drejet ret. Resultatet er, at udtagningen læner sig mod højre.
Se en video af teknikken her
Løftet udtagning mod venstre (LUV)
Her løfter du tråden mellem maskerne op forfra med venstre pind, og strikker den drejet ret. Resultatet er, at udtagningen læner sig mod venstre.
Se en video af teknikken her
VARIOUS TECHNIQUES
Magic loop
Magic Loop is a knitting technique that makes it easy to knit in the round, regardless of the number of stitches. If you haven’t tried this technique before, you can watch a video demonstration. here.You can watch an extra tip for the technique here..
Alternatively, you can knit in the round using double-pointed needles.
Short rows
COLORWORK / PATTERN KNITTING
Knit cables
A cable is created by crossing the order of stitches—typically over 2, 4, or more stitches. This creates a textured pattern that “twists” across the fabric.
If you're new to cables, it can be a good idea to practice on a small swatch first.
Example:
If you have 4 stitches and want to make a right-leaning cable, you would, for example, let stitch 1 and 2 rest at the back of the work while you knit stitch 3 and 4 first. Then knit stitches 1 and 2.
This is typically written in patterns as C4B (Cable 4 Back).
It creates a twist that leans to the right.
Whether the stitches rest in front or back depends on the direction you want the cable to twist.
– If the stitches rest at the back, the cable will twist to the right (often noted as C4B – Cable 4 Back).
– If the stitches rest in front, the cable will twist to the left (often noted as C4F – Cable 4 Front).
See a video of how to knit cables using a cable needle. here..
See a video of how to knit cables without using a cable needle. here..
Two-Colour Pattern Knitting
The technique is used to create patterns by alternating between two yarn colours on the same row or round. It is done by working with one colour at a time, while the other colour is carried loosely along the back of the work.
To achieve an even result, it is important to:
- to keep the yarn loose on the backside so the work does not become too tight.
- to maintain control over the yarn dominance.
Yarn dominance in colorwork
When knitting with two colors, the position of the yarn in relation to your fingers is crucial for how the pattern stands out. The color held closest to the work—usually over the index finger—is called the is called the dominant color.It will automatically have slightly longer floats on the back, causing it to “puff” more in the finished pattern. The non-dominant color, carried further away—often over both the middle and index fingers—will appear more subdued.
By being aware of dominance, you can control the look of your colorwork and ensure that the right color stands out clearly. In my patterns, the default is the contrast color., which is intended to be the dominant color, unless otherwise stated.
Tip: If you knit with both colors in the same hand, you can switch their positions relative to your fingers. If you knit with one color in each hand (e.g., one in the right and one in the left), be aware of which hand controls the dominant color. It is almost always the left hand that provides the most dominance.
Tips and Help
If you haven't tried the technique before, you can find a video. here.that shows how to knit stranded colorwork from the right side, and here. and how stranded colorwork is knitted from the wrong side.
Remember to practice on small swatches to get control of yarn tension and dominance.
Diagrams
If you are new to chart knitting, you can read more about the method here.The chart shows the work from the right side and is read from the bottom right corner. When knitting in the round, all rounds in the chart are read and knitted from right to left (the knitting direction). When knitting back and forth, the chart is read and knitted from right to left on the right side and from left to right on the wrong side.
Each square represents a stitch, and each symbol within the square explains how the stitch should be worked.
If the numbers are on the same side of the chart, the work is knitted in the round. If the numbers are on opposite sides, the work is knitted back and forth. The red square is repeated until you have the number of stitches left on the needle/round that follows after the red square.
Guide to Using Online Charts
To open an online chart, click on the link to the chart in the pattern. If no arrows appear on the right, you can do the following:
- Click on the menu at the top left (the three lines).
- Click on ”Progress tracker”.
Now you can navigate up and down the chart using the arrows on the right side of the screen. A row is highlighted by lighting up while the rest of the chart is dimmed. To access different options, click on the number between the arrows on the right, then click "More" at the top left under "Progress." You can not You might accidentally delete something in the link, so don’t be afraid to explore and discover handy tricks.
BIND OFF
Double knitting before Italian bind-off
Before you do the Italian bind-off, it can be helpful to knit a few rows/rounds in double knitting. This creates a smoother and more symmetrical transition and makes the bind-off rounder and fuller. You can knit double knitting over 2 or 4 rows/rounds depending on the yarn thickness and type.
You can see the technique in use here: Video of double knitting for Italian bind-off
DOUBLE KNITTING, worked back and forth
The explanation assumes that your work has a knit stitch as the first stitch in your ribbing; if your rib starts with a purl stitch, knit 1 stitch before you begin the double knitting.
Knit: *1 knit, 1 purl slipped stitch with yarn in front of the work.* Repeat across the row.
Repeat this row your desired number of times before binding off.
You can watch a video of the technique. here..
DOUBLE KNITTING, worked in the round
Rnd 1: *K1, p1 with yarn in front of work. Repeat from * to * around.
Rnd 2: *K1, p1 with yarn in front of work. Repeat from * to * around.
Italian Bind-Off
“Italian bind-off” is an elastic bind-off that creates a neat finishing edge, perfect for ribbing. The technique is done by sewing the stitches together with a tapestry needle. This creates a seamless transition that almost looks like a continuation of the knitting.
The technique requires patience and precision, but the result is well worth it. If you haven’t tried the “Italian bind-off” before, you can find a video of the technique here.
Important: Do not pull too tightly during the bind-off — the edge may become too tight. When you have finished the bind-off, you can adjust the size of the edge by gently stretching it, almost as if there were an elastic in the ribbing.
"Italian Bind-Off in 2x2 rib" here Alternatively, you can use a different elastic bind-off.
"Italian Bind-Off in 2x2 rib" here Alternatively, you can use a different elastic bind-off.
If you encounter any issues with one of my patterns, feel free to contact me under the CONTACT tab Often, you can also get help with patterns from the store where you bought the yarn.
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